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1.  Print the books on full sized paper, (8 1/2 by 11 inches) that have 3 holes already punched out (or you can punch your own holes).  The book can now be put in a three-ring binder. 

Advantages:  You only need one binder per child.  The books can be stored in a manila envelope and stored in a file cabinet or box.  If a page gets ripped or torn out, you can replace it easier.  You also don't need any special equipment, except for maybe a 3 holed paper punch if you can't find paper that is already pre-punched.  Book will lay flat on a table while open.

Disadvantage:  The books can be heavy and clumsy -- unless you use half sized paper (5 1/2 by 8 1/2 inches) and half-sized binders. These smaller binders are more expensive than the larger binders though.  Also some people like me prefer books that look like real books so that they will look nice on a bookshelf.  Those who do use this method, however, say that their kids don't mind this, and their kids read them just as much as other books, even if they don't feel like a real book, and even if you use the large three ring binder.

Note:  For smaller books try report folders. 

2.  Some people print the books out on full sized paper or half-sized paper and then take the book to a place like Kinko's, or another office place to have them spiral bound or comb bound.  Some people even buy their own binder so that they can do this in their own home.
(I have used this method once.)

Advantages:  Is a good alternative to the 3 ring binder.  The book will lie flat on a table while open.  Pages probably won't come out as easy as they would in a three ring binder.

Disadvantages:  You can't write the book name on the spine of the book, which can make it hard to find on a bookshelf.  The pages are a little bit harder to replace if you have to reprint a page.

3.  Some people use the Gigabooks method for binding books.  This is a method where you use card stock to make a cover for the book.  After printing the book, you use a special glue to coat the edges of the paper where the spine is.  After a few coats you glue the spine of the cover in place.  (I have not tried this method)

Advantages:  You get a book that looks like a paperback book.  You can glue a ribbon into the spine to use for a book mark.  (An idea I use sometimes with my thermal binder.)  Does not require any special tools other than a clamp.

Disadvantages:  I have not tried this method so I don't know how well the books hold up.  I have heard from others that they hold up pretty good -- especially if you use the right kind of glue.  Harder to replace pages if a page gets wrecked.  Book will not lie flat on a table while open.  

4.  Some people staple the pages together with a heavy duty stapler, and then glue on a card stock cover with the Gigabooks method.  Or, they cut out two card stock pieces the same size as the pages for the front and back cover.  Staple the book together.  Then use book tape or duct tape over the spine. (I have not tried either of these methods.)

Advantages:  Probably more durable than the Gigabooks method.

Disadvantages:  Pages can not be replaced if a page gets wrecked.  The book tends to be more stiff and harder to open (I have heard).  

5.  Some people sew the books together.  There are two basic ways to do this.  The first is to clamp the pages together and use a drill to drill holes for sewing on the edge of the book.  (About 5 for half-sized book.)  Then use dental floss to sew the book together instead of using staples as suggested in number 4.  As in number 4 you can either glue the cover on, or sew the cover on and then use tape to cover the stitches.

The second way you can learn about at this web site: Jones on Book binding This method you sew the pages into the cover.  The end result is a book that is 5 1/2 by 8 1/2 inches that is sewn together like a hard bound book.  To print the book out, you need to print in booklet format using 8 1/2 by 11 inch paper, then fold in half.  You then sew on the fold line.  Some printers will print in booklet format.  If yours does not and you want to use this method, you can buy the  Fineprint  program.  (I have tried both of these methods once each)

Advantages:  A book that is very durable -- especially the second method.

Disadvantages:  Takes more time and effort (but may be worth it for some people)
For the first method when I tried it, I didn't clamp the pages down, so I wasn't able to sew the pages together very tightly.  In some ways this was good though -- the book was able to be laid flat on the table while open.

6.  Thermal Binding. (This is the method I use the most)

Advantages: You have a variety of types of covers -- even hard covers to choose from.  Looks like a real hard covered book (or paperback book if you use card stock for covers.)  Can write the book title on the spine so you can find the book easy on the bookshelf.  You can repair any book that is falling apart (even ones that you did not make.)  You can also replace pages if you need to.  Just heat up the book in the binder so that the glue melts.  Take out the page that needs to be replaced and replace it with the new one, and let the glue harden again.

Disadvantages:  You have to buy a special binder and special glue sheets.  The hard covers cost a fair amount, but is worth it if you want a hard covered book.  I make my own covers to cut down on the cost. (See below for how I do this.)

To find out about thermal binding and other binding methods that I did or did not mention, and/or to purchase a binder and materials you need you can visit this web site:  MC2 Office Binding
 

7.  Hot glue gun method -- alternative to the Gigabooks method and thermal binding

Don't know too much about this method.  If you do try it, look for glue sticks that are made for book binding.  There is such a thing.  You need to have the right type of glue stick so that when the glue hardens, it doesn't become brittle.

Advantages:  You don't have to buy a thermal binder, but you still get a book that looks like it is thermal bound.
 

Printed cover - before binding	Finished Books